Exomo, chiton, peplos, gimatiy, chlamys, hlena - all these are the names of the first dresses in the history of mankind. The ancient Egyptians, the Greeks and Thane masterfully draped in a simple piece of cloth. For example, in the time of Homer, a rectangular cut of fabric was folded in half so that the fold line passed along the left side. The dress was decorated with ornament, draped, girded. Try to reproduce something similar at home - you will get a real chiton.
ROPE, NEEDLE AND SHEARS
When the draped clothing was replaced by a korenaya, the tailors at first cut out the sleeves along with the front and back. In the XIII century, the sleeves began to be cut apart, but that's funny: every day they had to sew or tie, and in the evening to steal or untie - otherwise it would be impossible to take off the dress. And only when they invented the clasp on the dress, the sleeves were sewn into the armhole "to death".
During the Middle Ages the clothes became very long, with a train, a very narrow bodice, the waist - just under the breast. Sleeves, strongly narrowed, ended with a bell that covered the thumb of the hand. If they expanded downwards, they were decorated with fur or appliqué from cloth. It was through the sleeves and the length of the dress that the class superiority of its owners was determined. And here the beautiful beauty, wishing that the elastic fabric noted the smooth roundness of its forms, tries on a new dress: the bodice tightly grasps the chest, the waist is tightened with a dense belt, and on the hips the exquisite expensive brocade, moire, velvet, satin is draped and draped extensively.
In the XVII century the female mill was tightened with a corset with metal gaskets. Delicately to the extreme, the waist turned into a lush domed skirt. The fashionable addition was a huge stand-up collar. When the lama suddenly fainted (in truth, most often from the lack of oxygen due to a tightly tight corset), it was thought that in this outfit, it looks particularly courteous and exquisite.
At the turn of the nineteenth and twentieth centuries couturier Paul Poiret invited the ladies to finally and irrevocably abandon the corsets. The skirt in length began to reach the ankle line, the waist was raised above the waist, the sleeves still wide in the area of the armhole and narrow at the wrists, became uniformly even. The desire to simplify clothes as much as possible led to radically new solutions in the design of the dress. So, for example, it was invented cutting along the oblique for a tight fit of the figure. Later, in a fit of coquetry, the women opened their legs even more. In addition, after the First World War and economic changes, people were simply forced to lead a more active lifestyle, to which the abundance of long skirts was simply a great hindrance. The dress began to leave less and less material, and cuts began to be considered more and more meticulously and carefully. The soil for the new invention was prepared ...
NOT ONLY THE TRAUR, BUT AND GLAMOR
In fact, women used to wear modest black dresses before. True, there were special reasons for this. Usually it was mourning. Or other dresses simply were not due to poverty. Widows, shop assistants in stores, lonely old maidens ... Somehow, they were not associated with cheerfulness. Was black in vogue? Sometimes yes. When Queen Victoria of England was widowed, the whole country plunged into her mourning attire. However, the fetish black dress turned much later.
Gabrielle Chanel created it as a model, in 1926 and declared in public that fashion is impossible without a little black dress. Overnight it became both a symbol of the new chic, and almost the same symbol of France as the Eiffel Tower. A small black dress was not just black: Chanel lost her lover. After her, half the world dressed in mourning. The cheerful and pastel colors for the main entrance were forgotten.
How did the masterpiece look like? Fabric - muslin, semicircular cut, long narrow sleeves. No excesses: no collar, no buttons, no folds, no frills. The only decoration is a string of pearls on the neck, slightly softening severity. Chanel self-confidently said that many couturiers know how to look at the top of the dress, but only it can create its bottom. She considered the length above the knee to be unacceptable: her knees seemed to her like the ugliest part of a female body. So she covered them in the middle. The new dress was quite democratic. Allow yourself such an outfit now was at the time of any woman - even the one whose incomes are very modest. You just need to refill the wardrobe with just one dress to feel fashionable and attractively dressed.
Many designers subsequently put a lot of experiments with small black dresses. Everything changed: length of sleeves, neck shape, length of skirt, trim. The creation of Koko in the interpretation of Karl Lagerfeld turned into a mini-coat with a flared bottom or even ... a white dress. The leather dress from Dior returned the woman to the Middle Ages. ZHivanshi wrapped the dress around the lace shawl. Emanuel Ungaro added a wide waist, emphasizing the waist, and a long puffy skirt. Valentino sewed it from black lace. Yves Saint Laurent made a scandal and decorated the square cut with bright pink puffy lips in the style of Salvador Dali. And the most sexy black dress was suggested by Gaultier: the knitwear was wrapped around the body, and the deep round neckline passed exactly under the breast, piquantly exposing her.
But that's interesting: in the whole history of fashion and style, any deviations from the original version were deprived of a small black dress of its unique facelessness. It became anything: business, cocktail, evening, but ceased to be universal, and therefore, new investments were needed to replenish the wardrobe. In addition, with a modified dress, its owner was unnecessarily striking, remembered by others - putting it on too often was already simply dangerous.
Every season of the fashionista does not get tired of "quoting" the creation of Coco. Any metaphors with this thing can be carried out in an instant. Here is a lady wearing a simple jacket on top - and she can be sent to the office. She supplemented the dress with a fur collar and a brooch with rhinestones - the dress turned into a glamorous outfit for parties. This season, you can let a short black dress with bright colored pantyhose. If it is cold, a turtleneck with long sleeves will be saved, but necessarily thin and of a contrasting color. Or on top of the dress - a woolen collar of large mating. No less cozy option can be considered all the same dress, which is worn over tight trousers. By the way, this season the Fashion House Chanel shortened the sleeves for three-quarters and offered the classics an alternative - a small red dress, bright and cocky. Shades: tomato, carrot, coral, geranium, muted red, purple, burgundy ...
TRENDS OF THIS SEASON
And what to wear for each day? This winter, many well-known fashion houses in the wardrobe have a funny, almost ascetic sarafan (you will find something like this in Deha and Benetton), which can be worn with both white innocent blouses and pretty sexy tight-fitting turtlenecks. And it should be worn not only for young people, but for middle-aged women. It is desirable that the blouse had a tiny collar without sharp corners, small ruches, and there were cuffs on slightly short sleeves. Sarafanchik in any case is not allowed to defiantly fit your figure. Everything should be spacious, free and completely devoid of sensuality. Collections of the season also offer a dress with a neckline under the neck and a small round collar (Mango, La Redoute).
If we talk about high fashion, then DKNY approves a silhouette in the style of Latin - a bright mini dress with a high waistline. Gucci loved the dress-shirt with graphic patterns, decorated with silver sequins, dresses with high waist and "patchwork" prints. Miuccia Prada offers short tunics, bright satin dresses - purple, red, orange - with round shoulders in the style of the 40's (do not ignore the golden dress tunic with the smell of Sinequanone). Ferre showed lace dresses in linen style, black and beige colors (almost like Anastasia by S'Oliver and Alain Manoukian). Karl Lagerfeld proposed the use of high-tech materials: black silicone, silver leather, holographic sequins. Acceptable colors: brown, white, silver, blue, blue, pink. As a result - an extravaganza of cosmic mood in the spirit of the 60's: metal micro-dresses with a butterfly, dresses by the type of bat. All this is directly dictated by the history of fashion and style in clothing. A must-have accessory is a wide belt that emphasizes the waist. It's worth a look at MonSoon and Karen Mylen - you'll see similar dresses.