Today it is difficult to imagine a woman whose wardrobe would not be replenished with a jacket. It can be a single whole in the form of a suit with trousers or just a skirt with a jacket of the same color and fabric. But it can be an absolutely independent thing, which can easily be combined with other items of the wardrobe. Jacket is appropriate today in the office, and at a fashionable party.
History of a female jacket
Some fashion historians believe that the name gave him the man's name Jacques, which was especially common among French peasants who liked to wear short-cut jackets. According to others it was from a late-age outfit, which was called jaquette. Then the jacket looked little like a modern man's jacket, its shape was more like female models: huge sleeves, folded skirt and collar-stand, reaching up to the ears. Over time, a dress-tailleur appeared in the women's wardrobe, the prototype of the current business suit. The first he sewed an English tailor for the Princess of Wales, the wife of the future King of England Edward VII, closer to the end of the XIX century. The master copied a man's suit, and then he simply transferred his form to a woman's dress, which he divided into a double skirt and a corsage. The corsage was eventually destined to turn into a jacket, it was put on a vest or blouse. Feeling the convenience of a thing that can be worn all day from morning to night and change only shirts with starched collars or elegant blouses decorated with lace, the women already for anything did not want to give it up. So there was a new direction of fashion - to the women's jacket.
From century to century, the jacket was transformed, becoming something broad, now tight-fitting, but invariably remained faithful to man's traditions, until the beginning of the XX century - the time of emancipated individuals with a short haircut, which was to the face severity. Today's jacket is hard to recognize in old-fashioned patterns. Fashion - the mass, the color scheme - almost all shades. We'll run through the most in demand this season.
Types of women's jackets
Cardigan - rather long and straight, without collar and lapels. Often, cardigans can be knitted, on one button or under a belt.
The trench coat goes back to the English trench coat - "clothes for the trench", that is the overcoat. But also "having left on the citizen", trench for many years continued to carry on itself lines of the military form: pockets and shoulder straps, a turn-down collar, detached seams, a departing coquette on a back and an asymmetric flirt-valve on a shelf, a belt, pulled in a loop, hoods on sleeves . True, modern models that are somewhat shortened do not require a full set of parts, except for one condition: the trench coat should always have a graceful fitted silhouette.
Hungarian - another jacket, borrowed from the military. It is decorated with a dash and decorative braid, as is customary in the dragoon uniform. Fashionable this spring, military jackets are not gray-brown-green, but blue, red, with gold buttons and epaulettes with fringes.
Jacket-Chanel introduced in the fashion of the last century the famous Coco. She borrowed garments from men and made them more elegant elements of women's fashion, making coarse, brocaded fabrics feminine. Chanel contrasted clear lines and a restrained cut of a tweed suit to magnificent skirts, complex suits. Jacket-shanel - without a collar, short, with a braid on the throat and sleeves - and today wear true ladies complete with a skirt
Spencer - a short jacket with long sleeves covering his hands. It is named after Lord Spencer, who is revered as its author. Men wore a spencer in the XVTII-XIX centuries. Now you rarely see him in the wardrobe of a gentleman. But the ladies fell in love. Classics are very short, to the waist, as a rule, light tones.
Mandarin resembles traditional Chinese and Japanese clothes. This jacket is a direct silhouette with wide sleeves, with a large stand or without a collar at all. The buckle with buttons and hinges is asymmetric, the right shelf from the top corner is cut diagonally. It looks great with a mini-dress. Mandarin has a second name: quilted - "quilt". It is sewn from thin silk fabrics on sintepon. It is believed that the Mandarin introduced Japanese fashion designers Kenzo and Yamomoto to the European fashion. The exotic outfit and Yves Saint Laurent, who did not leave the mandarin without attention in his last collections, fell in love.
The jacket is also borrowed by Europeans from the eastern wardrobe. Long coats with a collar-stand and a dead clasp resemble the costumes of Jawaharlal Nehru, the Indian leader of the last century. Today such a jacket is made from matte brocade or jacquard. It can be worn with wide trousers. The silhouette is feminine, the waist is underlined, and the fabrics are thin and glossy.
The abundance of models can embarrass. Which one to choose for you? Ladies with uniforms will fit an elegant cardigan. He will brighten up the full hips. A thin waist will emphasize the trench coat and jacket from the English costume. If you have long legs, pay attention to the spencer.
Trends this year
For the inhabitants of the middle belt this spring will come in May, so we will warm ourselves up with cozy jackets for a long time. In the current direction of fashion for women's jacket, the tendency of the last few years to maintain democracy remains. Different styles can be mixed in the most incredible combinations. You will no longer meet the strict, narrow, classic ladies' English costumes in the kit - they are taken to "break up". For example, it is perfectly permissible, after attaching a narrow strip of fur to the collar of a jacket, to combine it with narrow pants, shorts or even jeans.
The season favorite is white. After him follows a restrained brown, neutral gray, beige, black. The length of the jackets is up to the middle of the thigh. Silhouette - strongly fitted, to once again emphasize femininity.
The British edition Telegraph made a list of seven topical things that every fashionista needs to have. First of all, it is a military-style jacket resembling a tunic and a hussar uniform. According to the Paris fashion connoisseurs, the lady in this jacket looks confident and protected, but at the same time very feminine and aggressive-sexual.
On the world catwalks
European designers advise to refresh the wardrobe with knitted cardigans. They look good with a tweed pencil skirt or wide trousers. You can wear a man's cardigan, strapping it with a strap a la Prada. Dress with an overstated waist is perfectly combined with a tweed cardigan.
Jackets with geometric prints, according to Karl Lagerfeld, must be supplemented with blue jeans or black shorts, as well as skirts that are just a little above the knee. The main decoration of lapels of jackets, according to the latest trend of fashion, is a scattering of black, gray and white flowers, so beloved by the main character of "Sex in the City". In the spring and summer collection Christian Lacroix - models that moved from men's wardrobes: wide tweed trousers and spacious baggy sports style jackets. And Marc Jacobs presents jackets with a clear color geometric pattern in the style of the 60's.
Valentino switched to Chinese motifs. White and pink jackets with square shoulders and collars in the "Mao style" are perfectly combined with shorts to the knee, silk skirts trimmed along the edge with a contrasting cord, or skirts in a pleat.