How to take care of indoor plants pahistahis

The genus Pachystahis (Latin Pachystachys Nees.) Unites 7 - 2 species. The genus is represented by evergreen perennials and shrubs that belong to the Acanthus family (Latin Acanthaceae). Plants are widespread in tropical zones of Central and South America and rain forests of East India.

The genus received its name from the Greek "pachys", which translates as "thick", and "stachys" meaning "ear". Pahistahis surprises with the structure of his inflorescence. Bright bracts have a yellow or yellow-orange color and are cross-shaped. Of these, small white flowers rise, forming a spicate inflorescence about 10 cm long. 15-20 inflorescences can simultaneously blossom on one plant. Blossoms pahistahis not for long, but even after withering and falling flowers in inflorescences remains a decorative appearance for several weeks. It is possible to achieve a long flowering period from April to August.

Pakhystahis large plant, reaching 1 m in height, has thin erect shoots. The leaves are large, oval, pointed to the tip, dark green in color, located opposite. Externally, the pahistahis is similar to the aphelandra, although it does not have such decorative leaves. Pakhistahis are unpretentious, it is easy to care for plants. The biennial culture is recommended for growing in room conditions, as with prolonged cultivation the lower part of the plant is strongly exposed, and it loses its attractiveness. If you become the owner of this wonderful plant, then you need to know how to take care of indoor plants pahistahis.

Kinds.

Pakhistahis yellow (Latin Pachystachys lutea Nees) - a half-shrub about 1 meter high. Shoots erect, at the bottom of lignified. Leaves are dark green in color, elongate-oval with tapering tips. Sheet dimensions: 14-20 cm in length, 4-7 cm in width. Pahistahis yellow - an evergreen plant, with good care forms about ten spicate inflorescences. White flowers have an amazing shape: they are bisexual, deeply incised, because of what resemble an open beak. They are opened in turn, starting from the base to the top of the inflorescence. Bracts of this species are large, bright yellow, for which he received his species name. Characterized by a long flowering period from spring to autumn.

Care of plants pahistahis.

Lighting. Pahistahis loves bright diffused light, avoiding direct sunlight. The best place for its maintenance are the western and eastern windows. And in case of placement on southern windows, you should create protection from the sun in the form of translucent paper or fabric. In winter the plant requires good lighting.

Temperature regime. In spring and summer, the plant prefers a temperature of about 20 ° C. If the temperature exceeds 24 ° C, the humidity in the room should be increased. In the cold season, the recommended temperature is 16-19 ° C. Pahistahis does not like very warm air, so you can not place it next to the heating devices. Note that although the plant needs fresh air, it is very afraid of drafts. The first reaction to a draft is an unexpected dropping of the foliage.

Watering. In spring and summer, it is recommended to water the pahistahis abundantly, as soon as the top layer of the earth dries. In winter, watering is reduced to a moderate one: watered after 1-2 days after the top layer of the substrate dries. Remember that in any case it is impossible to wet the substrate, the soil must be moist. The plant reacts very painfully to the drying of the earth coma.

Air humidity. Pahistahis loves high humidity, so it should be sprayed periodically throughout the year. To do this, use well-spaced or filtered water. In very dry air indoors, it is recommended to spray 1-2 times a day. To increase the humidity, put the pot on a pallet filled with damp claydite, moss, or pebbles.

Top dressing. Top dressing is done once in 2 weeks, pre-abundantly watering with clean water. Mostly Mullein or complex flower fertilizer is used.

Crown formation. Care for these indoor plants includes timely pruning and prischipku, the purpose of which is to create a beautiful crown. Form the plant begins with a young age. This need is due to the fact that in the natural habitat of the pahistahis struggling for their place under the sun, so they grow quickly without spending power on branching. And only reaching at least 80 cm in height, the plant begins to branch. In the case of room cultivation of the pahistahis, the formation of the future crown should begin in the first year of life of the young plant. The first pruning is recommended at a distance of 11-15 cm from the ground. This operation is simple: from the lateral shoots a third pair of leaflets are pecked out, too, and with the next tier of shoots. In the end, having done this procedure 3-4 times during the first year, by winter you will receive a plant with 9-12 tops. After the wintering period, you should trim or prishchipku all the tips. Given that each of these tops will then give a minimum of two shoots, you will have a pahistahis with 18-24 tops. Such a plant should be prepared for flowering. Note that the faded twigs will separate themselves into two and then bloom again. In the spring of next year, you need to repeat the pinch.

Transfer. Pahystahis should be transplanted in the spring of each year, pruning it. For this, a substrate of the following composition is used: clay-turf ground (2 parts), peat (1 part), leaf (1 part), humus (1 part) and sand (1 part). It is recommended to add fragments of charcoal to the mixture. Remember that pahistahis prefers moist soil, so you need to install a good drainage to avoid its souring. Propagate pahistahis mainly vegetatively (cuttings).

Difficulties of care.

If the plant drops leaves, then the pahistahis is standing in a draft. Another reason may be insufficient watering of the plant.

If the tips of the leaves dry, and the leaves begin to twist, then the room is very dry air. Spray the plant every day, otherwise it will cease to bloom.

If the pachystachis bare the lower part of the stem, then it needs rejuvenation in the form of a short pruning. Cut off shoots can be cut and planted.

If the cuttings begin to wilt and do not take root for long, cut the large leaves halfway and put the cuttings in a warm place.

Pests: whitefly, scab, aphid, spider mite, mealybug.