Historically, the first lipstick appeared about 5000 years ago. It was made using beeswax, animal fat and red pigment - carmine. Carmine is obtained from carmic acid produced by female cochineal insects. Carmine is registered as a food supplement E120 (permissible for use in the food industry of the Russian Federation as an auxiliary for food production (p.2.25.2 SanPiN 2.3.2.1293-03).
The experts of Roscontrol decided to find out what is included in the composition of modern lipsticks and whether they really are as natural as advertizing.
OZPP "Roskontrol" purchased decorative lipsticks of red shades of the most popular brands and checked them for the most important criteria for this category: the presence of heavy metals and harmful substances (mercury, lead, arsenic), the ability to cause irritation, compliance with shelf life.
The list includes:
- Max Factor (422 rub.) With lipstick Color Elixir Lipstick Tone No. 685 mulderry ,
- Maybelline (180 rub.) With lipstick Hyderra extreme with collagen 39 / bois de rose naturel Natural Rosewood 670 ,
- Oriflame (139 rubles) with lipstick The one 5-in-1 color stylist lipstick tone Red Haute Cout ,
- Pupa (625 rub.) With lipstick PupaVolume tone No. 500 ,
- Avon (189 rub.) Extralasting Enduring Wine ,
- Dior (1730 rub.) With lipstick Dior Addict Extreme tone Tone 866 paparazzi
- Clinique (1 290 rub.) High Impact Lip Color tone 27 after party
What is dangerous about lead in lipstick
Studies have shown that lead, 3.19, 4.23, and 4.37 mg / kg, respectively, were found in the Dior, Maybelline, and Oriflame samples. Technically, this is not a violation, because the limit established by the technical regulations allows a lead content of not more than 5 mg / kg. Nevertheless, according to statistics, for which a woman eats about two four-gram lipstick tubes a year, she also receives 0.04 mg of lead, respectively. It would seem a little, but this substance has a property to accumulate in the body.
Also, the samples were tested for arsenic and mercury. And if the regulated standards for the presence of arsenic meet all the samples, then with mercury, lipsticks brands Pupa, Oriflame and Maybelline have problems. These samples exceed the permissible value of 0.7 mg / kg: 8.15, 8.23, 7.61, respectively.
Andrey Mosov, head of the expert department of NP Roskontrol:
| "Within the limits of the standard, this quantity is considered permissible, but do not forget that lead, as a heavy metal, has the property of accumulating, which means that its concentration in the body increases with time. The lead removal period from the body can be more than 20 years. Elevated levels of lead in the body can cause female infertility, can provoke diseases of the bone system. In addition, too much lead in the body interferes with the assimilation of other important substances such as calcium, zinc, selenium. Excess lead in the body can manifest itself in increased fatigue, headaches, memory impairment, increased blood pressure. Mercury is even more insidious, it acts asymptomatically. And this is the worst thing. " |
Conformity label
Marking on packages of all samples leaves much to be desired. On the Max Factor lipstick tube is a sign of the hand with a raised finger - evidence that a label must be attached to the product, for example, a brochure with detailed information. (There was no such brochure.) An incomplete composition is indicated, namely, dyes are not mentioned, which contradicts the TR of the TS.
On the remaining samples, the labels are typed in a small, unreadable font. This does not allow the buyers to make informed choices and is a serious omission on the part of manufacturers.
According to the evaluation of the composition declared on the label, all the products tested do not contain substances that are prohibited for use as ingredients in perfumery and cosmetic products. All samples give a uniformly stained smear, which indicates the optimal composition for pigments and colorants. However, despite this, the experts had a number of comments on the composition of certain samples. What is interesting, both to democratic brands, and to representatives of the Luxury segment.
The feeling of dryness and tightness may indicate a high content of film formers with a low coefficient of air and vapor permeability (for example, silicone resin) in the composition of Pupa, Oriflame, Maybelline .
The rancid smell in the samples of Max Facor, Pupa, Oriflame (a sign of spoiled lipstick) indicates the oxidation of fat components, which is confirmed by the rather high values of the acid and carbonyl numbers found in them. Given the long shelf life (all purchased lipsticks had a good shelf life) indicate that the composition is not balanced by antioxidants that prevent oxidation of the fat phase, or initially taken raw materials of low quality. This was another reason to put these brands on the blacklist.
Alexander Borisov, chairman of the OZPP "Roskontrol":
| "Lipstick Oriflame , the only lipstick manufactured in Russia according to GOST, therefore for it a rancid smell is a direct violation of Article 19.19 of the Code of Administrative Offenses and threatens with a fine of 50 to 100 thousand rubles. In the samples of Pupa and Maybelline, an irritant effect was identified, which, according to TP 009/2011, should not be. According to Art. 14.43 The Administrative Code for this violation provides for a fine of 100 to 300 thousand rubles. The MaxFacor brand without proper attention to the rules has issued a label for its product. " |
Promises, or what not to invent for advertising
Lipstick Oriflame with the claimed effect of moisturizing and nourishing the lips, has not confirmed this property. The manufacturer promises the disappearance of a sense of tightness of the lips immediately after application, and as a result of clinical tests, a sharp decrease in the humidity level is established - by 10.9% in five minutes, by 28.8% after 1 hour, which causes a feeling of dryness and tightness. The effect is pronounced and stable - after three days of regular application, the moisture level of the lips decreased by 30.7% from the initial, which leads to strong drying of the lips and their cracking.
Pupa on its website promises to increase by 5% the volume of the lips in 10 minutes after the first application when providing information about the tested lipstick. During clinical trials, it was found that a slight increase occurs, and an hour later a decrease in the level of moisture (due to the composition in the lipstick of glycerin, and not the wax) - which leads to the opposite effect - a reduction in the volume of the lips.
Thus, the rating was led by the lipsticks of the brands Clinique, Avon and Dior, and in the black list of Oriflame, MaxFactor, Puppa and Maybelline.
| Security | Quality | ||||
| Name | Lead | Signs of depravity | Irritant effect | Effect | Resistance |