At the molecular level
The main trend of the XXI century - the formula of cosmetics should be perfect, and the components - the most effective. Take, for example, hyaluronic acid. Because of the ability to retain 500-1000 times more water molecules than its own molecule, it has been considered as one of the most popular moisturizing ingredients for more than half a century. Scientists have long been interested in its anti-age properties. However, the large size of the molecules did not allow them to get deeper than the surface layer of the epidermis. And when a few years ago, scientists managed to "crush" it and thus deliver deeper into the epidermis, it became a sensation. Recently, low molecular weight (fragmented, fractionated) was added to such hyaluronic acid working in the depth of the epidermis. Its tiny molecules can penetrate the dermis and restore the skin from the inside, stimulating it to produce its own hyaluronic acid. No less promising as a noninjective ingredient like this, the collagen is one of the main structural elements of the skin, responsible for its elasticity and elasticity. The first collagen creams did not live up to the expectations of the same fecundity of its molecules too good, besides it is distinguished not only by its high resistance, but also by the ability to penetrate the epidermis, filling the "gaps" in place of the lost collagen fibers and speeding the synthesis of new ones.
Clever peptides: the formula of youth
Peptides are molecules consisting of chains of amino acids of different length, capable of sending the skin or muscles the original signals "to action." Today, peptides use almost all brands: they are very stable, easily penetrate the skin, and at the same time contribute to the penetration of other nutrients. Increasingly, the effect of peptides is enhanced by vitamins and plant extracts. The most fashionable trend in recent years - complex muscle relaxant peptides, relaxing facial muscles (argirelin, adenoxine, matrixyl, octamyloxylate, etc.). Creams with them help to get rid of facial wrinkles and are a safe alternative to Botox. The only minus for today - to see the maximum result, you need to wait a few days, like after injections, and not less than a month, and all this time the cream should be used daily. Many scientists consider the pyronids in the future as yet another alternative to Botox.
Genetic Engineering
The theory that premature aging of the skin is due to DNA disorders, was actively developed in the 90's. However, with cosmetics that restore skin cells at the gene level, we were able to get acquainted only recently. In this area, the most serious developments are underway. For example, in the research center of the corporation Estee Lauder special attention is paid to the study of the so-called "clock genes" of the skin, which are responsible for activating its natural functions in the exact time allotted. Because of the chronological aging, the harmful effects of the environment and daily stresses, these genes are knocked off the rhythm, as a result of the synchronous operation of the skin cells, it becomes more vulnerable during the day and worse at night. And scientists from the Paris Institute at St. Louis Hospital and L'Oreal Paris, having studied more than 4,000 genes as a result of 10 years of research, isolated about 300 of them responsible for the skin restoration process and investigated each. This was the impetus for the creation of the "Pro-Gene" technology, which stimulates the work of restoring skin genes and thereby triggers its internal reserves.
Dairy rivers, yoghurt shores
A new word in the care of problem and oily skin is creams with probiotics. Just like bifidobacteria normalize the balance of the intestinal microflora, the lactobacillus of skim milk restores the pH-balance of the skin, strengthens its protective functions, removes inflammation, accelerates the healing of lesions. The main plus of probiotics - unlike most antibacterial components, they fight not with all the bacteria in a row, but only with harmful ones, restoring the beneficial microflora of the skin. Also, probiotics have an excellent property to soothe sensitive and irritated skin. In the UK, research on the ati-age properties of these components is under way, and the first results are very encouraging. It turns out that our grandmothers were not far from the truth, when they smeared face masks on their faces!
Mix, but do not shake!
However, very often the most difficult is to create a stable formula of a miracle remedy. So, for example, it was with vitamin C - one of the most powerful antioxidants, very quickly oxidized by contact with air. That is why, in the opinion of many scientists, in the next couple of decades there will be more and more so-called solid-phase cosmetics. Its liquid and solid phases are mixed immediately before use. For a long time, such funds could be found only in the arsenal of professional cosmetologists (this, for example, alginate masks). Another plus in favor of these cosmetics - the number of active ingredients in them as much as possible, and the number of preservatives, often causing skin irritation, on the contrary, is reduced to a minimum.
Nanocosmetics: even less!
The main oxidative processes in the skin cells and the birth of wrinkles occur not in the epidermis, but in the deep layers of the dermis, which is why so many hopes scientists place on cosmetic products with nanoparticles. Penetrating into the dermis, nanosomes begin their work: they excrete toxins, improve cell regeneration, restore them, neutralize free radicals, and fight against aging. And if nanoparticles are combined into a whole nanocomplex? Here it is, the cosmetics of the future! As scientists believe, using these tools, it really looks 10-15 years younger, without resorting to plastic surgery and other achievements in aesthetic cosmetology. The main task is to make each component of such a nanococtail not only the most effective, but also safe. It is the latter aspect that is now given maximum attention, because the action of nanoparticles has not been fully studied yet.
Old friends in a new light
Among the "beauty components" that are habitual for us are those whose leadership is becoming more and more obvious.
Retinol
It is this active form of vitamin A that allowed the manufacturers of creams to say that cosmetics can make you 10 years younger. Retinol stimulates cellular metabolism and normalizes natural metabolic processes in the skin, as a result of which it is smoothed, wrinkles decrease, and pigmented spots become lightened. In new drugs, retinol is combined with hyaluronic acid and peptides. Recently, scientists also rely on its plant varieties. For example, "yellow" peels based on natural retinol (extracts from the plant urukum) have all the advantages of traditional retinovyh peelings, but they are softer.
Coenzyme q10
The discovery of this component (its other name "ubiquinon") was not accidentally awarded the Nobel Prize! This enzyme is present in the body, including in skin cells, and is responsible for producing 95% of the cellular energy. With age, the amount of Q10 in the skin decreases, and it lacks the energy to renew. Cosmetic companies are now looking for a way to increase the concentration of coenzyme Q10 to make skin care products even more effective.
Proteins
Another Nobel Beauty-winner is epidermal growth factor, a protein molecule that helps to heal cuts on the skin, stimulating the growth and division of new cells and the production of collagen. The main task facing scientists is how to reduce this miracle molecule in order to make full use of its "unique capabilities (it has a large molecular weight).