Part 1. Use of acids in cosmetology: hydroxy acids

There are in the beauty industry people who dislike the series "Sex and the City." Can you guess why? Now we will refresh your memory of the plot of the fifth series of the fifth season, and you will understand the reason for their indignation. Once the fatal Samantha enrolled in the clinic for Botox injections, and the good doctor suggested testing an acid peeling, saying in a velvet voice: "Only one procedure will rejuvenate you for 15-20 years." As a result, the blonde left the clinic with a big burn on the face. A terrible story, huh? Meanwhile, the doctor of medical sciences Jeannette Graf argues that cosmetic acids in their mass are friendly with the skin - because it is already naturally oxidized. And their properties are very different: some are better than any scrub exfoliate, others give radiance, others strengthen the protective functions of the epidermis and moisturize it. So that you do not accidentally smear yourself with something completely different, before you guide on the basic types of acids, in demand in cosmetology and the peculiarities of their use. Oxyacids (ANA and VNA)
A modern girl simply has to shine - and these girlfriends make the skin shine and under no circumstances can be described as problematic.

What is the strength of acids
Exfoliate the epidermis and give it a healthy radiance (secret - in the removal of dead cells), stimulate the production of collagen (here it is about youth, as you understand), improve the skin relief and eliminate pigmentation, and do everything to ensure that you never come across acne personally.

Who are they?
Here we decided to talk immediately about two types of acids: ANA and VNA. Let me explain and tell you what each group is like. Both these chemists are labeled with organic carboxylic acids and are divided according to the molecular structure: alpha (ANA) and beta-hydroxy-acid (BHA). Although, by and large, they are distinguished by one fact: the first - the letter A, are soluble in water, the latter - in fat. And now we translate: ANA-hydroxy acids work on any skin, VNA-the best of all are friends with fatty or combination.

Official duties of ANA
You write down for an acid peeling in the salon: you know, you are waiting for the procedure with ANA-hydroxy acids. Their main skill is to remove dead cells, and depending on the concentration to do this they can at different depths. For example, a day cream with ANA, which you smear on yourself at home, works with the stratum corneum, the cosmetician, armed with a compound with 20% acid, will reach right up to the dermis. Both in the first and in the second case, alpha-hydroxy acids are approximately the following: they are distributed between the skin cells and push out the old dull ones to the surface, where they dissolve safely. In parallel with this process, upon contact with the active substance, the cells lying at a depth begin to show activity. This also applies to fibroblasts that produce collagen, which affects your youth.

Dosage
In your ANA-cream and cleanser, the concentration of acids should not exceed 5-8%, for salon care, the threshold is 20%. If you fall into the hands of a good specialist, the peeling can give results on-go-go which are comparable to microdermabrasion: small wrinkles will leave, the skin will look like new. Stay satisfied with the effect, go for acid peels every three to six months.

Do you want the product with the ANA not to disappoint? Keep three more tips:
  1. Apply "acid" to absolutely dry skin - water neutralizes its effect.
  2. Try to buy creams or cleansers from ANA in pharmacies. There are more chances to acquire products with a decent concentration of the main active substance.
  3. The optimal home care plan should be: day cream and cleanser with ANA, and night and eye care - without them.
Official duties of the VNA
Before you, noble wrestlers with problem skin. These acids have comedonolytic and anti-inflammatory properties. Due to their lipophilicity, they can be taken straight to the pores and hair follicles, where they eliminate contaminants and dead cells and kill bacteria that provoke acne. The most famous representatives of this group - salicylic acid and resorcin - you can find in the composition of almost any makeup from acne.

Dosage
If your skin is fatty type, and even prone to inflammation, without hesitation, go to cleansers with salicylic content (0.5 to 2%) and resorcinol (1 to 3%). With obvious problems with the face, peels with salicylic acid are shown. Do it only in the cabin, because the concentration of the active substance here will be more serious, it can reach, and sometimes exceed 25%. The intensive course is five to ten procedures, once every two weeks.

And you can once a week make a mask with 2% salicylic acid. For the first time, keep the product on your face for no more than a minute and refuse this day from the funds with retinol.