Features of care.
The house plant fatsia prefers a light place, but not a sunny one, it can freely grow in a small shading (plants whose monophonic green leaves are shade-tolerant, rather than variegated plants). It grows well near the west and east windows. Near the southern window will pritenyat from the sun direct rays. Near the north window, green forms are better. Fatsia also grows well under artificial lighting conditions. For the summer, the plant can be carried to the open fresh air, but subject to shading from the sun's rays.
The optimum temperature of the content of fatsia in the spring and summer is 18-22 degrees. In winter it is better to contain fatsia in a cooler room (about 10-15 o , but not more than 15 o ) with good lighting. During this period, the plant can grow in a room with an ordinary room temperature. If fatsia is kept in a warm room in winter, it is necessary to build additional illumination using fluorescent lamps. The variegated forms in winter should be kept at a temperature of 16 о С (not lower).
In the summer abundant watering is permanent and soft water. Since September, watering has been declining. In winter, watering should be even rarer, but only if the plant is in a cool room, while the land should not dry out.
If a plant fatsia is kept in a warm room, then watering does not need to be cut, but only to drain excess water out of the sump a couple of hours after watering, this time will be enough for the whole soil to become moist. To watering must be treated with all seriousness - do not allow the substrate to dry out and the stagnation of water in the pan.
Even a single overdrying of the earth will cause the leaves to begin to descend, and it will be difficult to restore them to their former position (it will not save even copious watering). However, if it does, the leaves are tied horizontally to the spacers. Perhaps in time, the plant will acquire the original characteristic shape.
Large leaves are good for regular spraying with soft and pre-set water, to wipe with a soft damp cloth (the cloth can be replaced with a sponge). In summer, the plant can be put under a warm shower and washed. In winter, depending on the air temperature in the room, spraying is reduced.
In the spring-autumn period it is necessary to feed once every 7 days with organic or mineral fertilizers. With the onset of winter, if the plant is kept in cool conditions, top dressing stops, and if in warm conditions, then fertilizing is carried out a month once with the use of flower fertilizer.
It is necessary to produce a forming pruning, to which the plant should be treated calmly. To form a branched bush in young plants, one should pinch the tips of the shoots. Fatshedera The face is a kind that requires constant pincer and trimming.
It is better to transplant a house plant every three years in early summer (or in spring). The plant is transplanted into a pot that is wider than the former.
Fatsia sometimes forms several young stems at the same time, this is due to the radical offspring. For a transplant, you can take a weakly acidic or neutral substrate (pH = six to seven). The substrate can consist of equal proportions of foliage and turf, humus, sand, peat. You can take another earthen mixture, for example: two parts of sheet humus, 0.5 sand, 1 part peat, garden and turf. A good drainage system is needed at the bottom of the pot. Fatsia grows well on hydroponics.
Fatsia is a plant that reproduces by air outlets, apical cuttings, seeds.
The apical cuttings cut, as a rule, in the spring. Cuttings are best and faster rooted at 22-26 degree temperature in a moist mixture of sand and peat (1: 1). On the cuttings should be a few kidneys that are ready to start growing. After rooting cuttings should be covered with either a glass vessel or polyethylene. As the stalk is rooted, it is dived into the earth mixture. Thus, the propagated plant will be a low, but densely leafy bush.
Reproduction by fresh seeds. Seeds are sown in pots and boxes to a depth of one centimeter. Substrate take the following: in the same proportion of sand, leaf and sod land. Contain the seedlings at a temperature of 18 o C (this is the temperature of air, and the substrate). After the seedlings are strong, they are dived 1 seedling per pot (9-11 cm). Seedlings dive in such a composition of the earth: one share of sand and humus, two parts of sod land. After that, the young plant must be kept in a bright room.
If the trunk has a bare trunk, then it is rejuvenated with the help of an air layer - in the spring a shallow incision is made on the trunk, it is wrapped first with moist moss, which is first impregnated with nutrient solution or phytohormone (per liter of water, one gram of complex fertilizer), and then with polyethylene. Moss should be moistened as it dries, that is, the moss must always be wet. After a few months at the point of incision, the roots will appear. Two months after the formation of the roots, the tip with roots below the formation of the roots should be cut off and planted in a separate pot. The trunk, which remained to throw out is not necessary, even if there are no leaves. In this case, the trunk is cut almost to the root, which can be continued to water and there is a chance that it will give young shoots.
Precautions: parts of the plant contain poisonous substances.
Potential difficulties.
- Overdrying the substrate leads to leaf wilting, the formation of brown spots.
- Overmoistening of the substrate leads to the fact that the leaves wilt and become soft. With prolonged overmoistening rotting roots.
- Low air humidity is the reason for the fragility of the leaf blade.
- Intense sunlight, along with low humidity, will lead to the wrinkling of the leaf blade.
- Damaged: a spider mite, a scab, a mealybug, whitefly.