For many fashion historians, the main intrigue of the thirties is the rivalry between Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. This confrontation of two geniuses in the field of fashion has captured and still captures the minds of many.
Although both women were complete opposites, they were united by incredible talent and the desire to bring new and beautiful to fashion. What was the rivalry of these designers, what was its reason, as it was expressed?
Elsa was an ardent supporter of surrealism, and Koko preferred the classics. Schiaparelli tried to emphasize the individuality of individuality, the strength of the spirit. Chanel highlighted the beauty of the body. Gabriel's models were distinguished by the consistency of the style, the fabrics were chosen with soft, low-key tones. Elsa models are provocative, made of luxurious materials, using a shocking public decor. While Chanel introduced a classic suit with gold buttons, Schiaparelli offered sari dresses, appliqués in the form of animals, buttons-coins, necklaces from plastic insects. The origin was different. Elsa Schiaparelli belonged to the aristocracy, the circle of her communication consisted of the nobility of France. Koko was a former custodian of a simple family, and the entrance to a higher society was ordered to her.
Rivalry between Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel for the title of chief fashion designer did not always remain within the fashion podiums. Take this case, at least. At one of the receptions, Gabrielle, with showy courtesy, offered Elsa a chair that had just been painted. At the same time, Koko noted that it would only benefit from a bright, even mixed-up rival. Schiaparelli did not remain in debt. Often, she reflected her attitude in the caricature of Chanel on her new creations.
Fashion designers constantly lured each other from models and customers. So from Koko to Elze, Jason Fellows and Gala Dali ran. Also these ladies placed their orders in the same places. Gabrielle called Elsa "the artist who makes the dresses." But it did not stop to draw the ideas of "artist" for his work. In Chanel's collections, vivid colors unusual for this reserved person appeared.
It is difficult to determine who in this rivalry won. After all, it is impossible to determine the degree of influence that the creativity of these outstanding personalities has had on the further development of fashion. But one thing is certain, in the thirties the most popular was Elsa Schiaparelli. Her clothes were preferred by Hollywood actors. It was her feminine image that replaced the man-like twenties. But Coco became a classic fashion of the time. Els can also be called her dreamer and artist.
But in the end, the competition between Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel ended in reconciliation. Elsa just walked away beautifully. Having created the last collection, Schiaparelli got married and elegantly "left the race" first. The general enthusiasm for surrealism ended. Came new times, new hobbies. And along with them, and new heroes: Christian Dior, Coco Chanel. It is Christian Dior that is called the cause of Elsa's departure. His fresh ideas pushed both rivals to the background. And Schiaparelli and Shangel were forced to sell out their fashion houses.
But Elsa's departure did not mean oblivion. Her art remained in the history of fashion. Her models inspired many fashion designers: Vivienne Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, John Galliano, Biba, Franco Moschino. Things created by Schiaparelli were ahead of their time. Her creations were fashionable in the thirties, in the fifties, are relevant today.
Coco Chanel managed to make a revolution in the minds of millions. She freed the women from the corsets, gave the women black color, making it not a sign of mourning, but a sign of elegance, cut the hair, giving them rest.
Who won in the rivalry of Elsa Schiaparelli or Coco Chanel - it's definitely impossible to say. But only Coco entered the story, and Elsa was undeservedly forgotten.