Houseplants have long become an integral part of the modern interior. The variety of species of such plants allows each lover of wildlife to choose a flower, according to its aesthetic tastes or the complexity of caring for it. But as if the plant was not exacting to care, there is a problem that is often common to many species. These are pests. Spider mite on houseplants is one of such pests.
Kinds.
A true spider mite owns an oval body, about 0.3-0.5 millimeters in size. These mites are called red, although not all species have red color. Most of them have a green color, in general, the color directly depends on the food you eat. Live spider mites in a thin cobweb, which they themselves twisted together.
The false spider mite also has an oval shape, but too small a size of 0.25-0.3 millimeters, it can not be seen with the naked eye. The color can be from green to reddish. This kind of ticks does not weave the web, so if you see these insects, then the defeat has reached a large size. Adult individuals have four pairs of legs, since all the spider mites belong to the spider genus.
General information.
True spider mites weave a web, in which then more than one generation of spider mites live. This type of ticks multiplies quickly enough. On 10-20 days from the moment of egg laying, the larva becomes an adult. The larva, as a rule, has three pairs of legs.
Reproduction of a true spider mites is prevented by high humidity and low temperature. The same conditions slow the development of the hatched larvae. But it is necessary to improve the climatic conditions, and immediately begins a massive infection. It is worth noting and the fact that the true spider mites are able to move quickly enough from the plant to the plant.
The color of the tick depends on many factors, so it can be changeable. But in most cases ticks can be brownish, yellowish, greenish in color. On the sides of the body there may be darkly colored specks. Wintering non-feeding females, as a rule, are either red, or reddish. Males are usually smaller than females, they have a longer body. Females appear from fertilized eggs, and males from unfertilized eggs.
The mite larvae have only three pairs of limbs, whereas in adults there are 4 pairs. The larva after the first molt is transformed into a nymph, and she has a fourth pair of walking legs. That is, the larva becomes an adult with four pairs of legs. Eggs in ticks have a rounded shape.
Eggs after otkladki almost transparent, yellowish or whitish. As the embryo is formed, the eggs begin to grow turbid and acquire a yellowish color. How quickly the fetus will develop depends on the temperature. For example, at 15 degrees in the egg stage, the embryo will be about 15 days, but at 30 degrees about 2-3 days. The total lifespan of one generation of mites (from egg to egg) depends on the temperature, and last from 30-36 hours to 7-8 days. This factor should be taken into account when drawing up a schedule of chemical treatments.
With the onset of autumn, most of the nymphs are transformed into non-feeding wintering females. Some of them leave forage plants and search for a place where they can winter. Some individuals climb to the upper part of the room, and some fall back down. Therefore, there is no 100% guarantee that the dressing will destroy all pests in the room.
If the summer is too hot, some females stop eating and begin to look for shelter to wait out the hot summer days.
Signs of defeat.
This type of pest feeds on the contents of plant cells. If on the house plants on the leaves, most often on the lower side there are small white dots and a thin cobweb that flattens the plant, then this indicates a defeat by a spider mite. If the lesion is extensive, then the leaves begin to whiten with numerous injuries. It happens that the plant completely envelops the web, and on the tips of leaves and shoots, the bodies of moving pests accumulate.
Prevention.
The main reason for the appearance of true spider mites is low air humidity and dry air. Therefore, in order to prevent the appearance and further reproduction, it is recommended to maintain high humidity with regular spraying. But it is worth considering that the increased humidity does not tolerate the true spider mite, while the false spider mite adores the high humidity of the air.
As practice has shown, the orchid is mostly attacked by true spider mites, spurious rarely. Spraying the plant, make sure that the water does not stay too long in the leaf axils and in the core of the plant, otherwise the plant will start to rot. This is especially important in winter, because in this period the plant is kept at a low temperature and low light, so the water evaporates more slowly. The plant can not be rid of pests by immersion in water, because they are protected by air bubbles when they come into contact with water.
In order to prevent the occurrence of spider mites, Nem tree oil has shown good results, which is easily tolerated by plants, and acts reliably. The composition of the oil includes many healing substances, from which the mites die, because they have not developed immunity against these substances.
Treatment.
Treatment should begin with a good washing of the outer part of the plant. Rinse with warm water using a detergent for dishes, or laundry soap. However, one must remember that washing does not completely destroy pests, but only halves their population. It is necessary to wash not only the plant itself, but also a window sill, a pot and a saucer. After that, the plant is well watered and covered for three days with a plastic bag inside which moisture rises, which makes mites begin to die.
If a spider mite struck an orchid, then with such a procedure it is necessary to monitor the plant so that the leaves do not burn out from the heat.
Folk remedies.
Medical alcohol is used to treat damaged plants, but you can use it only for hard-leaved orchids, for example, Cattleya. For the treatment, wet the alcohol with a cotton pad and rub the leaves. Apply alcohol should a thin layer, then it evaporates faster, without causing a burn at the same time. It is advised to conduct a test before starting the procedure, by processing one sheet.
Decoction of the cyclormene tubers. For this, the cyclormen tubers are taken, cut into pieces and boiled for 40 minutes in boiling water. Then the broth should be cooled, insisted for 24 hours, strain and treat the plant. After 5 days, repeat the procedure.
Chemicals.
Chemicals are used systematically. For the treatment of plants it is better to take insecticides made on the basis of Akarizide - a protective substance. Chemicals must be alternated, since mites can quickly develop immunity against such drugs.