For protection and health of the skin is very important acidic shell - a special natural protective shell, which is formed on the surface of the skin as a result of mixing produced by sebaceous glands secretion, sweat, and oxidation of their living on the skin of specific bacteria - epidermal staphylococci. But it is disturbed by exposure to sunlight, cosmetics, excessive sweating and from all sorts of diets.
Alpha hydroxy acids.
The most common acid in the makeup is the alpha hydroxy acid group.
This group includes fruit acids - lemon, apple, tartaric, lactic and glycolic. These acids are found in many cosmetics and products. With the correct balance in the composition of cosmetic products and with proper use, they smooth the skin, moisturize it, neutralize the effect of ultraviolet light, smooth out the texture of the skin and increase the effectiveness of other ingredients contained in the cosmetic composition.
On the surface of the skin all the time formed "glue" - a kind of layer of dead cells of the epidermis. Correctly balanced alpha hydroxy acids destroy this "glue", making the skin silky and smoother. As a result, dead skin particles are removed from its surface, allowing cosmetics to penetrate deeper layers of the skin, which increases its effectiveness. If the skin is uneven, dull and looks lifeless, the use of cosmetics with alpha hydroxy acids will certainly give a positive result.
Despite the fact that a similar molecular structure is present in all alpha hydroxy acids, they differ in the properties and effectiveness of the effect on various skin problems. Of the alpha hydroxy acids, the most common are the glycolic, citric, malic and lactic acids mentioned above.
- Glycolic acid.
The most common among alpha hydroxy acids is glycolic acid. It is produced from sugar cane or obtained artificially, by synthesis. It is most effective due to the small size of molecules, allowing easy penetration into the skin.
Glycolic acid very effectively cleanses the skin of dead cells, helps to get rid of small wrinkles and acne, normalizes the work of the sebaceous glands. One of the main advantages of this acid is its ability to normalize skin color, brightening various pigment spots, moisturize the skin, and, acting as a kind of catalyst, increase the effectiveness of the other ingredients making up the cosmetic. It is even assumed that glycolic acid, penetrating deep into the dermis, stimulates the production of collagen.
- Lemon acid.
Citric acid is a very powerful antioxidant, so that, like glycolic acid, it helps to produce collagen in the dermis layer. In addition, this acid slows the aging process of the skin, removing pigment spots. Citric acid is found in large quantities in citrus fruits.
- Lactic acid.
To soften rough, thick skin, dermatologists often use lactic acid contained in milk, which has an effective ability to soften and moisturize the skin. Lactic acid retains the moisture level in the skin, removes the dead skin particles from its surface and increases the effectiveness of the other ingredients contained in the cosmetic composition.
- Apple acid.
Apple acid is found in green grapes and apples. Due to its ability to increase the flow of oxygen to the tissues, it is often used in the treatment of diseases such as fibromyalgia. Apple acid is used in the production of medicinal cosmetics.
The correct combination of the natural acid-base balance of the skin and the presence of acids in the cosmetic agent is the main thing that affects the effectiveness of cosmetic effects on the skin. If you use cosmetics correctly, then the alpha hydroxy acids useful to the skin will not cause irritation and will not lead to a burn.
Amino acids.
Peptides are a kind of chain, built of amino acids - biochemical bricks of the body. This chain contains a small amount of amino acids that are held together, thanks to peptide bonds.
With age, the skin loses its former elasticity. This is due to a decrease in the activity of special cells that produce collagen and elastin - the so-called fibroblasts. After 40 years, there is an increasing number of wrinkles, as every year the content of collagen is reduced by 1%. Amino acids help maintain the elasticity and youth of the skin, stimulating the production of collagen and elastin by fibroblasts, making them more active.
Amino acids are suitable for any skin, because they do not affect the natural acid-base balance, do not irritate or dry the skin. Many skin problems are solved using anti-aging cosmetics, which contains amino acids in its composition.
Other useful acids.
- Alpha-lipoic acid slows down the aging process, penetrating into the deepest layers of the skin, removing the inflammatory and damaging cytokine cells. Alpha-lipoic acid is soluble in water and fats, it is an effective antioxidant.
- Salicylic acid is used in the treatment of acne and exfoliation of dry skin.
- Vitamin C, being an antioxidant, in the form of ascorbic acid has the effect of lightening the skin.
- Ellagic acids in cosmetic products slow the appearance and formation of age spots, being a natural natural ingredient.
- Linoleic acid moisturizes dry and damaged skin. It is part of moisturizing emulsions.
- Hyaluronic acid is used as a moisturizing complex that contains a lot of moisture.
- Poly-hydroxy-acid: like other hydroxy-group acids, is very effective, but more gently affects the skin.