In the genus of the Radermacher, the leaves grow to a length of 20-70 centimeters, wide to 15-25 centimeters. The leaves are divided into a mass of small (up to 2-4 centimeters in length) of glossy green leaves.
Kinds.
The Chinese Radermacher, Radermachia is also called stereosperm titsum. It is a small shrub that branches abundantly and grows to a height of 1.5 meters. However, height growth is best limited to 60-80 cm, thereby not allowing the lower part of the stem to become bare. Limit active growth can be through the regulation of conditions of detention. Leaves large thrice - or twice - pinnately complex, reach a length of 40 cm. Leaflets along the edges dentate, elongate-lanceolate, bright green, shiny. If this species is kept in a cold greenhouse or in natural growth conditions, tubular funnel-shaped flowers will begin to form on the plant, which open exclusively at night, have a sulfur yellow color and the aroma of carnation flowers. In indoor floriculture, the Chinese Radermacher does not bloom, which is why it is grown at home as a decorative deciduous plant.
Care of the plant.
Indoor plants: the radermacher feels well in bright diffused light, but grows in a small penumbra. For cultivation, the west and east windows are well suited. But on the southern window the plant will have a lot of light, so you need to shade it from the sun's rays. On the northern window the plant may lack light, especially in winter, during this period the plant needs the maximum intensity of light. Lack of light can cause interstitials to stretch, making the plant look like a vine. Interstitial is the space between pairs of leaves or neighboring leaves. To avoid deformation of the crown, the plant needs to periodically turn to the light, so that the lighting is not one-sided.
During the growing season, the temperature should be about 20-25 °. In winter, the plant is best kept in cool conditions, but at the same time to ensure that the temperature is not below 14 degrees, the most optimal - 16-18 degrees. The room where the radermaker is growing needs to be ventilated more often, while avoiding drafts.
Watering of the plant is carried out by standing water (always soft). Starting from spring until the fall you need to water abundantly. With the onset of autumn, watering is reduced, in winter watering should be moderate (watering is better every 2 days after the surface layer of the earth dries). The land should not dry out, it should always be wet, but the plant does not tolerate over-moistening.
Radermacher can grow into a room with dry air, however, he likes high humidity. Humidity can be maintained by periodic spraying with water, or put the container on a pallet in which damp pebbles or expanded clay are poured. The bottom of the pot must be above water. Periodically, indoor plants can be placed under a shower and washed.
Feed the plant in April-September, that is, during active development and growth. Feeding is made by a balanced mineral fertilizer (per 1 liter of water 1-2 grams of fertilizer) every fifteen to twenty days. In winter, the plant does not need to be fed, but only if it is kept at a temperature of 20 degrees.
Radermeer should pinch in time. To give the plant the maximum bushiness, it is necessary to pinch the apical buds of shoots.
Dive the radermaker in the spring, young plants every year, and adult plants every two to three years.
It is necessary to transplant if the root system occupies the entire pot. In this case, during the transplant, the roots are pruned, and the tips of the shoots are pricked. For diving, one should take a fertile well-drained soil. The pot should be 2 centimeters wider than before. You can use the following mixture of land, consisting of turf, peat and humus (all taken in 1 part), a sheet of land (two parts) and the addition of a small amount of sand. Drainage at the bottom of the pot must be required.
Radermacher - plants that reproduce by seeds, cuttings, offspring.
Cuttings are propagated in May-June, with 8-10 cm apical portions of the shoots being used. Cuttings for rooting are placed in a mixture of peat with sand (in equal parts) or in wet sand. Then cover with a transparent polyethylene or glass vessel. The constant temperature should be about 22-25 degrees. Spraying is carried out as the substrate dries. Ventilate regularly.
Reproduction by layers. To do this on the stem, you need to make a 1-2 cm incision (incision is made in length), which turns into damp moss and cellophane. From time to time, it should be ventilated so that the moss does not dry out. After a while, the roots will appear in place of the incision, which must be separated from the base and planted in a pot (14-16 cm in diameter), while the old specimen is able to resume normal vegetation.
The brood is cut off after the roots fill the entire space of the packet, otherwise, if the roots develop poorly, then the shoot that was separated from the mother plant will take a long time to survive or even die due to the uneven ratio of the green mass and roots.
Possible difficulties.
- Lack of light causes the leaves to turn yellow and fall off. Leaves fall from the bottom, gradually rising up.
- With insufficient watering, the leaves begin to droop. Then you need to water the plant, after which the turgor will recover.
- Excessive watering will cause the leaves to droop and become pale or transparent. In this case, the plant simply transplanted.
- Insufficient feeding or lack of light can cause weak shoots, as well as small dull leaves.
- From excessively bright light and dry air, the tips of the leaves begin to dry.
- It is damaged: mealybug, aphids, spider mite.