Today, more than ever, spirits cause interest and foment passions, because with each passing day they are becoming more and more diverse and refined. Perfumes for everyone and personal options, fresh morning and luxurious evening. Aroma is a way of perceiving the world. Each of us has 5 million sensory cells (of course, compared to a dog that has 200 million, which is a bit), which allows us to appreciate all the delights of the sense of smell. It would be a pity to not use them. And for many millennia, mankind has not deprived itself of such pleasure: intoxicating incenses for communicating with spirits, strong and musky aromas, drowning out the smell of death, charming floral fragrances with which the marquis loved perfume, knowing the charm and love. The twentieth century turned perfumers into true masters: spirits began to make up, just as an artist paints a picture. The most gifted have mastered the mysterious art, thanks to which rare spices, rose from Grass and iris from Tuscany turned into an endless variety of unique flavors.
The ingenious nose
This perfumer should be an artist, a chemist and possess perseverance: in order to identify and combine more than 150 natural flavors and 3000 artificially synthesized odors, you need to study for ten years. It's about purely technical training. Talent is another story. This can not be learned. Many called, little chosen and only a few virtuosos, whose names are associated with the most famous flavors. It takes months, and sometimes years, to create a flavor formula. The goal is always the same: create a "compelling" flavor, one that can not be forgotten. As one of the famous "noses" Eduard Rudnitska says, "good spirits are those from which you experience a shock." Pipettes, perfume bottles, paper scraps to assess the smell and notebook - these are the tools for the perfumer that will work over the months to convey, with the help of the fragrance, the themes that are given to him for development. It will take hundreds of experiments and a large number of combinations to find finally what is needed. Of the precious mixture, the constituent parts of which are weighed on electronic scales, make the concentrate. The concentrate is infused for several weeks - at this time the aromas come into equilibrium with each other - and then diluted with alcohol. The phase of maceration begins, during which the aroma, like wine, ripens in special containers, and then free of the plant mass by freezing. It turns out a crystalline liquid, which is bottled in vials.
Bright personality
By the way, about the bottle. Strangely enough, the fragrance is not everything. You can even say that not always he is the decisive argument at the time of purchase. The first impulse, pushing us to try these, and not other spirits, is a name that evokes a dream or a beautiful bottle resembling a jewel. Hence the need to find the right words, a magical image and attractive materials that can express the "personality" of the new fragrance. For example, Emilio Valeros, perfumer of the Spanish brand Loevve, often starts to create the fragrance only when the concept is fully developed: the design of the bottle and the advertising campaign.
Gifts of nature
The art of creating perfumes is first and foremost the miraculous "kitchen" of mixing aromatic ingredients of a very different origin, natural or synthesized. Most perfume houses select not the inflorescence, but the synthesized aromas. Only Chanel, Jean Patou, Guerlain, Dior have their own flower plantations and make bouquets themselves. The main representatives of the flora, which are used to make "magic elixirs": May and Damascus roses, jasmine, Florentine iris - real perfume jewelry. After all, the cultivation and harvesting of these "sissies" is laborious work, so vegetable raw materials are extremely expensive. The same sorts of trees, from which the most luxurious wooden furniture and accessories are made, are also used by perfumers. Essences are obtained from Moroccan cedar, rose bushes or sandalwood. With the exception of vetiver and beans are thin, which are not used for food, in the laboratory of the perfumer you can find all those sharp, burning and highly flavored spices that add spice to our dishes. So, saffron, cinnamon, turmeric, vanilla, caraway and cloves participate in creating the most luxurious oriental (amber) flavors. The very same gray ambergris is an exclusive "creation" of sperm whales, which, having grown fat octopuses and getting indigestion, throw out the digestive product. This substance lighter than water can swim for a long time on the surface of the ocean. The caught ambergris is dried for several months until its unpleasant odor disappears, giving way to a delicate iodized flavor. This substance is extremely highly appreciated by perfumers and is used as a fixer in sensual aromas of high quality.
Nahimichi
Chemical essences do not oppose the natural, but complement them, allowing to vary the palette of perfumers indefinitely. Over the past 100 years, the perfume world has been enriched with more than 2000 synthesized aromatics. The chemistry of fragrances, which has been developing since the beginning of the XIX century, has proved that synthetic flavors can be produced by nature itself. When we inhale the fragrance of a rose, we are fascinated by the smell of more than 300 ingredients, among which are notes of violet, lemon, anise, and sometimes banana and vanilla. This discovery allowed perfumery to rise to a new level. For example, a molecule with the smell of hay (the famous coumarin) in beans was isolated. New raw materials allow perfume houses to avoid big expenses: a kilogram of natural essence of jasmine grown in Grasse costs about 23,000 euros, and a kilo of gedion (synthetic derivative, which is present in particular in Eau Sauvage, Dior) is 30 euros. The obtained results inspired the researchers to create aromatic substances from combustible materials. Could someone have imagined that from oil or coal you can recreate such delicate aromas as the aroma of roses, jasmine, hay, hyacinth and even strawberries?
What do women desire?
Choosing perfume, a woman wants the fragrance to express her personality and is a "talking" complement to her image. Oriental flavors, for example the updated Hypnotic Poison Eau Sensuelle. Dior, suggest the sensual, passionate and ready for a love adventure lady. Mysteriousness is given by the mysterious "Oriental Gourmet" created back in 1992 by Angel by Therry Mugler, who is still the subject of adoration of his devoted fans. Innocence and tenderness are reflected in the fragrance of the lily Anais, Anais, Cacharel. A new perfume from Escada, Absolutely me, is a seductive masterpiece for an unpredictable and cheerful person who never changes herself. The debut fragrance of Herve Leger Femme from AVON complements the image of a sexy and energetic business woman. But playfulness and coquetry lies in the continuation of a series of "pleasures" from Estee Lauder. A juicy fruit-floral fragrance Pleasures Bloom will present the joy of carefree days. Well, finally, what does every girl dream about? Of course, to hear the cherished words: "Let's get married!". Advice to future suitors: the romantic and simultaneously passionate aroma of Marry me from Lanvin, will be a great help if you decide to make an offer to your lover.