Planting daffodils
Narcissus is a bulbous perennial plant that has a vegetative period and flowering period, fruit, usually in spring and summer (first half of summer). The structure and development of the narcissus bulb is more complicated than that of the tulip, which is explained by the fact that the narcissus bulb is a perennial bulb. In the bulb of narcissus there are always different processes: accumulation of scales, the dying off of old scales, the formation of new scales.
Thus, the buds of renewal develop, which are deposited every year on a bulb (more precisely, on the upper part of the bottom) and lead to a shift of the scales to the periphery. Narcissus has storing flakes (from 9 to 17 pieces), which live up to four years, during this time the bulb in size increases. After the external scales gradually die off and turn into protective shells.
Vegetation of the plant is possible due to the babies that arise in the axils of bulbous scales, which, as they die, are released and begin to develop as independent plants. Babies are separated from the mother bulb at least 2 years later, this occurs in the sinuses where they were located and only after the death of the scales. The bud of renewal is fully formed in 2 years (it is considered from the bookmark to flowering). The conditions for the cultivation of this plant predetermine the flowering and the release of landing specimens - their quality and quantity.
The young bulb, which was formed from a baby, will reach its highest multiplication factor by the third year. Therefore, if you planted daffodils, you can dig them out only after three years.
Cutting daffodils does not affect the quantity and quality in any way, because the peduncle has no leaves. Roots in length reach up to 30 centimeters. The duration of root growth lasts up to 11 months. The roots grow intensively in the autumn period, partly in the spring period, insignificantly in the winter.
Cultivation of daffodils
If the daffodils are grown outdoors, it is better to plant them in the sun, but in the penumbra you can also achieve good growth, for example, near shrubs and trees, as well as on personal plots that are protected from strong winds.
Suitable substrate for daffodils: compost soil or decayed humus (for each square meter 8-10 kilograms). Repeated digging of narcissus requires the introduction of phosphorus fertilizer - superphosphate (at 1 2 m 60 grams). Feeding is carried out by mineral fertilizers several times a season.
In early spring, until the snow has not yet completely subsided, the fertilizer is carried out with a full mineral fertilizer (NPK) for each meter in a square of 80-120 grams (at the rate of 2: 2: 1). The second fertilizing is carried out during budding, the same fertilizer and from the same calculation. The third feeding takes place during flowering, per square meter to 35 grams (in the ratio 1: 1).
Any cultivated soil is suitable for the good development of narcissus. If daffodils are planned to grow on clay soils, it is necessary to add sand and peat, if it is planned on light soils, then humus and turf are introduced, and if on acid soils, it is required to limy it.
Full strength of the young bulb of this plant is gaining by the 3rd year, then the strength gradually weakens, while the flowering quality is reduced to avoid this, it is advisable from time to time to plant narcissi (several years once)
In 3 years after the landing, the bulbs can be excavated from the ground. In the summer, daffodils begin to die, it appears that the leaves fall to the ground. At this time, the bulbs are dried and again planted in the fall (or late summer).
If the children from the mother bulb do not separate themselves, then they should be cut off with a small piece of the common Don.
Bulbs before planting two weeks are stored in a dark dry place at a temperature of 25 degrees, then they can be stored at 18 ° C. So you will get much more planting material, because already formed young daughter bulbs next to the old bulbs.
Do not advise when planting to use manure, use only humus. The time for planting daffodils will depend on the variety and condition. For example, in the north daffodils are planted in mid-August. However, it is not advisable to plant daffodils late in the day, because the low air temperature does not allow the bulbs to take root, which in turn leads to a decrease in flowering and even to the freezing of the plant.
If the daffodils on the open ground are planted in early September, then you will get early flowering. Flowering lasts an average of two weeks, this is if the plant is planted in the optimal time. Well, if the plant is planted in the early period, the flowering lasts up to one month.
The bulbs are planted in furrows on beds, at a distance of 10-25 cm from each other. The depth of the groove will depend on the size of the bulb itself. For example, if the diameter of the bulb is 1 cm, then it is covered by 8-10 cm depth, and if the bulb diameter is more than 3 cm, then to a depth of 20 cm. The plant needs abundant watering. After the ground is slightly frozen, it is necessary to conduct mulching by humus.
In summer, narcissus can be planted immediately after the nests are separated, because the old bulb roots will die after the development of new roots. Therefore, there is no need to dig out the bulbs of narcissus every year.
If the bulbs for some reason were dug up and stored in unnatural conditions, then the plant has a biological rhythm failure, the roots begin to die, and this can affect the flowering next year.
Another thing is if the bulb is carefully excavated and immediately planted in another place. In this case, the roots are damaged slightly, and the plant has time to take root well before the onset of cold weather, while in the spring it blossoms perfectly.
Precautionary measures
Working with a bulb of a narcissus, it is necessary to use gloves because in a bulb contains poisonous substances.
Possible difficulties
Planting and growing flowers such as daffodils can have difficulties. For example:
- Infection of bulbs with fungal diseases - gray mold and fusariosis.
- The leaves are damaged by a burn and white mold.
- In addition, the plant can be affected by viral mosaic.
- It is damaged: onion and stem nematodes and other pests of onions.