Almost every cosmetic company has a line of cosmetic preparations based on ANA compounds. The greatest advantage of such cosmetics is the absence of age restrictions. ANA-cosmetics can be used according to indications even from adolescence. For particularly greasy and problematic skin it is recommended to use alcohol-containing products and lotions, for dry skin - cream. The latter are ideal for the skin of people aged, for pigmented skin.
Effect of AHA cosmetics
The following effects are known, provided by AHA cosmetics:
- anti-inflammatory;
- antioxidant;
- exfoliating - alpha hydroxy acids weaken the compound of corneocytes in the stratum corneum of the skin;
- moisturizing, thanks to the renewal of the epidermis;
- activates the synthesis of collagen and glycosaminoglycans, due to the stimulating effect of AXA on fibroblast cells;
- increases the elasticity of the skin;
- reduces the depth of wrinkles; masks skin defects.
Advantages of alpha hydroxy acids
Cosmetics with alpha hydroxy acids contribute to the discovery of younger skin cells, by removing dead, old surface cells. In other words, ANA have a peeling effect. Moreover, alpha hydroxy acids are considered to be good stimulants of the basement membrane, a place where new skin cells are produced. Fruit acids can be used to brighten skin, smooth out some loose things, thanks to a light peeling. It has been shown that AHA at low concentrations speeds up skin renewal and thinens the thickness of the stratum corneum. AHA in high concentrations slides the epidermis and then can directly affect the skin naderm. Remember that peeling with acids in a concentration of 20% or more should be performed in beauty salons. It is better to entrust this procedure to professionals.
Theory of stress
According to the theory of stress, AXA has its own effect by regulating the formation of intercellular substance in the dermis. Chemical burn has a strong stress effect, which activates the skin's defense systems. Kozhamobilizuet its internal resources, begins to synthesize vitally important molecules, the regenerative activity of the dermis is significantly increased. Thus, under the influence of alpha hydroxy acids, the dermis thickens and the thinning of the epidermis. Due to these processes the stratum corneum becomes more elastic and elastic, fine wrinkles on the skin surface are successfully smoothed.
Basic alpha hydroxy acids used in the cosmetic industry
- Wine acid. It is characterized by a bleaching, moisturizing, exfoliating effect. In high concentrations is contained in the old wine, oranges, mature grapes.
- Glycolic acid. It was revealed that this ANA promotes the outflow of sebum, exfoliation of cornified scales on the surface of the skin. Glycolic acid reduces the manifestation of hyperpigmentation. This acid has the lowest molecular weight, which allows it to easily penetrate the skin and quickly exert an effect. It is shown that the use of cosmetics based on glycolic acid for 3-6 months reduces the depth of wrinkles, eliminates fine lines and significantly brightens the pigmented areas of the skin. In large quantities, it is found in sugar cane, as well as in green grapes.
- Lemon acid. Has a whitening, bactericidal and antioxidant effects. This acid has the largest molecular weight. The main source of citric acid is the fruit of citrus plants.
- Lactic acid is a good exfoliating and moisturizing action. This acid has long been used in the cosmetic industry as the main moisturizing agent. The source of lactic acid is sour milk, yoghurts, apples, grapes, tomato juice, blueberries, maple syrup, passionflower.
- Apple acid is a good exfoliating agent, activates the cellular metabolism, encouraging cells to renew. It is found in apples, tomatoes, as well as other vegetables and fruits.
- Salicylic acid. Does not apply to alpha hydroxy acids, since its chemical formula contains a phenolic group of beta-hydroxy acids. In cosmetology, salicylic acid is used to enhance peeling in combination with fruit acids. Salicylic acid has a keratolytic, antiseptic, antifungal effect. Contained in the form of ethers in the birch bark, in the foliage of the gullet, the evergreen half-shrub, belonging to the family of heather. Basically, all cosmetics contain a complex of AHA acids, which complement each other, so that the desired result is achieved.
Contraindications
AHA-acids have some contraindications, because the procedure of chemical burn does not fit every skin. To begin with, it is necessary to perform a test for individual intolerance to ANA acids. For this on a small patch of skin on the back of the hand, you need to apply a remedy. With normal tolerability, redness, itching, burning, and pain should not develop in this place within 24 hours. If this reaction has occurred, do not use this medication. Do not use AHA-acid if you have tender, sensitive skin. Also, alpha hydroxy acids are contraindicated in small dilations of vessels, herpetic rashes, other fresh injuries, sunburn and after prolonged exposure to the sun.